Ski*go Ski Wax    

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Ski*go Pure Fluorocarbon Wax Application

Pure fluorocarbon wax application is divided into 4 sections:

All application descriptions below are to be done in a warm waxroom (~20°C) with good ventilation. When using an iron remember to let it warm through at least several heat cycles at the recommended temperature for the wax to ensure the iron base is evenly heated. Recommended temperatures are with the product descriptions. The recommended temperatures will produce the best waxing results for durability/longevity and speed. You are always encouraged to keep the waxroom well ventilated. A respirator is always recommended to avoid inhaling fumes and/or very small particulate from brushing -- you will race best with clear lungs!

Ski*go Fluid Application: C22 Fluid, C44 Fluid, C55/C99 Fluid, C105 Fluid

  1. First wax the skis with the Ski*go HF or LF wax of the day as normal.
  2. Spread fluid evenly across the entire glide zone.
  3. Allow the fluid to dry fully. Do not rush.
  4. Once the fluid has dried then cork the base to warm the wax into the base. Roto-corking is the best.
  5. Let the skis cool (10 minutes minimum)
  6. Brush (roto-brushing is best). Note: be very careful brushing! Go lightly.

Note: When using C44 Graphite Fluid the applicator will get black as will the cork when corking. Do not worry -- this is the graphite from the fluid wax, not the ski base.

Comments: This is an alternative method to the one above. If you do not have the time to cork the wax you may skip this step. For durability it is recommended that the corking step be done. An alternative is to warm the wax into the base with a waxing iron (using an fluoro ironing cloth between the ski and the iron to protect the base because the fluid is such a thin layer of wax). But, we do not recommend the ironing method. The risk of burning the base is high, and we believe that corking provides the best control and best result with the fluid fluorocarbon waxes.

Ski*go Solid/Bloc Application: C22 Solid, C44 Solid, C105 Solid

  1. First wax the skis with the Ski*go HF or LF wax of the day as normal.
  2. Rub the bloc across the base to crayon it evenly in the glide zones.
  3. Cork the wax into the base. Roto-corking is easiest/best.
  4. Brush the base.
  5. Crayon a second layer over the glide zone.
  6. Cork the wax into the base. Roto-corking is easiest/best.
  7. Brush the base.
  8. Spray the glide zones lightly with water.
  9. Brush again very thoroughly.

When roto-corking start with slow RPM's along the ski until the wax crayoned on has stuck to the ski. Then use the higher RPM's. Remember to use light pressure only. If an area of the base does not appear covered after the slow RPM roto-cork pass add more wax to this area before going to the higher RPM pass.

Ski*go Powder Application: C22, C44, C44-Anthracite, C105, C55, C99

  1. First wax the skis with the Ski*go HF or LF wax of the day as normal.
  2. Scrape then brush very well.
  3. To minimize the risk of burning the bases, rub little/thin layer of bloc fluorocarbon wax on the bases. (An alternative is to rub a thin layer of the HF wax of the day.)
  4. Sprinkle the pure fluorocarbon powder evenly so that all of the glide zone is covered uniformly.
  5. Using the wax iron tack the powder down to the ski base. This prevents the iron from plowing it off the ski.
  6. From tip to tail warm the wax into the ski base. This is best done in a single pass of the iron. Do not go too fast or too slow; concentrate on what you are doing. Optimally you should see trailing behind the iron molten wax that appears to have little sparkles "dancing" over the ski base. When the wax is molten it will go from a white-like colour to transparent with the dancing sparkles.
  7. Let the skis cool (at the very minimum 10 minutes, longer for C22 because the hotter iron will leave the bases hotter).
  8. Brush each ski in short strokes so that a white powder layers itself over the ski.
  9. Cork the white powder back into the base. Roto-corking is best.
  10. Let the skis cool again (at the very minimum 10 minutes).
  11. Brush the skis. Roto-brushing is best/easiest. Do not scrape.

For long races wax 2-3 rounds of the Ski*go pure fluorocarbon powder! This will maximize longevity of the top speed!

If you do not have the time you do not need to roto-cork the excess dust into the ski base. It is better to let the skis "rest" longer instead.

When letting the skis cool if you can leave them to "rest" for several hours in a 20°C room before brushing. This will help the bonding to increase the wax's longevity.

C22 is the trickiest of the pure fluorocarbon waxes to apply. The wax iron must be very hot (about 190°C). This is hotter than with the others. The wax iron temperature should be about 145°C for C44 and C44 Antracite while C105, C55 and C99 will have an iron temperature of about 140°C. By having the correct temperature less smoke will be produced. If the wax appears as a white film then the iron was not hot enough. The container labels suggest 110°C as the melting point for all of the pure fluorocarbons. This is true for all except C22 (the label is wrong and will be corrected in the future). The melt point for C22 is about 145°. The above suggested iron temperatures will result in the correct melting of the wax.

Ski*go C2000 Application: C2000 Liquid

  1. Spread a even layer of C2000 across the glide zones.
  2. Let the ski "rest" for a long time -- 12 hours is optimal.
  3. Brush the glide zones.
  4. Spread a second layer of C2000 over the glide zones.
  5. With the waxing iron set at 100°..120°C warm the wax into the base.
  6. Let the skis cool until all heat is gone (cold -- at least 25 minutes).
  7. Brush very thoroughly. Roto-brushing is the best.

Brushing is very important. Even after 7km of skiing you may experience an acceleration of the glide.
[ N.B. C2000 has been replaced by the new sensational Fluid waxes as of 2004]

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