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Waxing Machine Container Kit

Rode Waxing Machine Container Kit

Extra wax container for waxing machine with roller included.

Ships World-Wide! $5 shipping on orders above $100 & Free-Shipping above $250 to all North American addresses!
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About this series: Rode Waxing Machine
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    $119.95
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Application Methods

Safety Warning!

In the application process of some ski wax products, you and others can ba exposed to dangerous dust, fumes or residues. With the correct safety protolcols in place, these risks can be mitiagted and waxing can be very safe.

Safe Waxing protolcol:

  1. Always wax in a well-ventilated area. Outside is best. If you have to wax inside make sure there is some sort of air exchanger in place. Range hoods are best. Fans are better than nothing. Be sure to point out any lack of air exchanging equipment to the staff of any waxing facility or the race organizers.
  2. Whenever using any kind of heat in the waxing process (irons, heat guns, torches) always wear a respirator. Respirators that cover your eyes are best and check for a fluorocarbon rating on your respirator. Remember, the most dangerous fumes are not from powders but resins in grip wax and klisters. Wear a mask even when you are using non-fluorinated waxes since fumes from burnt paraffins are not OK to inhale. Respirators are required in the wax room.
  3. When creating any dust in the waxing process (brushing, scraping) always wear a respirator and gloves. Compounds in blocks, liquids, powders, klisters, and other hardwaxes can be absorbed through the skin. Wax companies keep their wax recipes secret so we have no idea what chemical compounds are present in most waxes nor their effects on the body. Always wear gloves while waxing to reduce your risk to negligible levels.
  4. People who are not waxing are not allowed in the wax room.
  5. Be sure to safely dispose of wax shavings and dust. Contained in a plastic garbage bag is adequate.

With the proper level of adult responsibility, any wax can be used perfectly safely and with negligible harm to the environment. Follow the correct safety protocols whenever you enter a wax room and be prepared with the right safety equipment. Remember to enjoy your fast skis to the max!

    How to Prepare your Ski Bases for Glide Waxing

    Whether you have a brand new pair of skis, a freshly stoneground ski, or a ski requiring maintenance after 200-300km on the trails, going through a base preparation process will clean out any dust or dirt as well as saturate and harden the base so it's ready for several outings. The base preparation process is the best way to maintain the health of your ski bases so they'll treat you to many years of fast glide. You'll also get the most out of any subsequent wax applications since a saturated and hardened base will provide an optimal anchor or any wax you apply on top.
    1. Begin by scraping a brushing out your base as thoroughly as possible. Use metal brushes if you have them.
    2. Clean your entire base with a base cleaner or wax remover. Wipe as much dirt and dust off with Fiberlene or shop towel.
    3. Using a piece of Fibertex, energetically rub-down the entire glide zone to remove any microscopic hairs or burrs in the base. Ski*Go's pink paper is also great for this.
    4. Melt a thick layer of the softest yellow paraffin wax you can find with an iron set to 110C to 120C.
    5. Before the yellow wax has had a chance to cool, gently scrape and observe how much dust/dirt comes up with the not-quite solid wax. No need to brush yet. If a lot of dirt comes up, melt and hot-scrape another layer of yellow wax.
    6. Once, the yellow wax has come off clean, apply another layer of yellow wax and let it cool.
    7. Scrape and brush the cooled yellow wax and iron on a layer of a harder paraffin wax. A blue, green, graphite or dedicated base wax is ideal for this. Melt, cool, brush, scrape and repeat at least three times.

    Tools for the Job

    • Groove Scraper
      246 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Rode 3mm Plexiglass scraper
      408 in stock!
      $8.95
      $8.95
    • Fibertex Green, Hand (3 sheets/pack)
      4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      152 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • Green Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Red Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Horsehair Handbrush
      98 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
      151 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Glider Cleaner
      73 in stock!
      $35.95
      $35.95
    • Bronze Handbrush
      160 in stock!
      $49.95
      $49.95
    • Hard Nylon Roto Brush
      34 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Horsehair Roto Brush
      28 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Soft Nylon Roto Brush
      31 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Roto Handle
      193 in stock!
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95
    • Non-Digital Waxing Iron / 160°C / 15mm plate / 110v / (DIAL, Non Digital)
      3 in stock!
      $319.95
      $319.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / (Dial Control, Digital Readout)
      2 in stock!
      $444.95
      $444.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      1 in stock!
      $519.95
      $519.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 200°C / 25mm plate / 110v / (Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      $799.95
      $799.95

    How to Iron Paraffin Waxes (Hot Waxing or Melt Waxing)

    Instructional video in Swedish, but it gives you the idea. English instructions below:

    The bread and butter of glide waxing. Using an iron to apply paraffin blocks of melt wax is the classic, timeless way to get your skis going speedy. Using an iron is a skill and takes a bit to master, but if you work at it you won't have to on the trails!
    1. Begin by making sure your skis are clean. Scraped then brush gently with a steel or brass brush.
    2. Using a piece of Fibertex, energetically rub-down the entire glide zone to remove any microscopic hairs or burrs in the base. Ski*Go's pink paper is also great for this. Your ski is now clean and prepped for the paraffin wax.
    3. Pre-heat your iron to the temperature recommended by the wax company for the particular wax you will be using. Temperatures for paraffin waxes are usually between 110C and 160C.
    4. Melt thin bead of the wax of the day down the ski on one side of the groove and back up the other side. Hold the iron with the plate vertical and touch one of the bottom corners to the ski base. Hold the block of wax in the other hand and touch it to the iron to melt it. Move quickly to apply the right amount of wax. Make sure the iron's electrical cord isn't going to get caught or knock anything over. I do not recommend holding the iron above the ski and letting drips fall onto the ski. It is very difficult to wax consistently this way and you will waste wax when you miss the ski entirely and drip hot wax onto your feet. Another method to get the wax on the ski is one I use when I'm applying precious, expensive HF paraffins: Quickly tap the paraffin block to the bottom of the iron and in a quick motion drag the still-hot block along the base until all the liquified wax has stuck to the base. Repeat by quickly touching the block to the iron again and repeat until the entire glide zone is covered with a thin layer of wax.
    5. Once the wax is on the ski set aside the block of wax and use the iron to melt the wax into the base. Hold the iron with a light pressure and run it down the ski from tip to tail careful not to let the iron rest in one place for too long. The paraffin should liquify for a couple of seconds but harden after a few seconds. If the wax is liquified for more than a few seconds you are not moving the iron fast enough. If you move the iron too fast the wax will become solid after a second or less. Try to completely cover one side of the ski's groove with the paraffin on the first pass by angling the pressure of the iron with your hand. Cover the other side of the groove on the second pass. On the third pass, apply pressure evenly across the ski.
    6. Use a groove scraper to remove wax from the sidewalls and the ski's groove(s).
    7. Let the ski cool. 5 minutes.
    8. Using a sharp scraper, scrape off the excess paraffin. Scrape like you mean it, but don't press too hard. Angle the scraper forward and place your thumbs behind and at the bottom of the scaper. Scrape from tip to tail.
    9. After scraping, pass a steel or brass brush 5-6 times using a light pressure. Start at the tip and move to the tail.
    10. If you like, you can polish the base using a nylon hand brush or nylon roto-brush.
    11. Consider finishing your ski by adding structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper.

    Tools for the Job

    • Groove Scraper
      246 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Rode 3mm Plexiglass scraper
      408 in stock!
      $8.95
      $8.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      152 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • Green Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Red Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Horsehair Handbrush
      98 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
      151 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Glider Cleaner
      73 in stock!
      $35.95
      $35.95
    • Bronze Handbrush
      160 in stock!
      $49.95
      $49.95
    • Hard Nylon Roto Brush
      34 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Horsehair Roto Brush
      28 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Soft Nylon Roto Brush
      31 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Roto Handle
      193 in stock!
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95
    • Non-Digital Waxing Iron / 160°C / 15mm plate / 110v / (DIAL, Non Digital)
      3 in stock!
      $319.95
      $319.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / (Dial Control, Digital Readout)
      2 in stock!
      $444.95
      $444.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      1 in stock!
      $519.95
      $519.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 200°C / 25mm plate / 110v / (Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      $799.95
      $799.95
    Cold Weather Waxing
    Warm Weather Waxing

    How to Apply Klister

    Video in Swedish, but it will give you the idea. (English instructions below)

    Klisters are the stickiest kick waxes. They're so sticky they come in a tube, like toothpaste. Klister is the best way to get grip in super icy snow or in very warm, wet snow. Klister is often viewed as a huge pain to use but it can actually be used just as easily as any hardwax. If you are skiing a shorter distance, red klisters and warmer can be applied with only a cork. You'll probably need a heat source for violet klisters and colder. The best kick you'll ever have will probably be on a klister day so don't miss out because you think it will be too messy!
    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. Because klister is meant to be applied very thick, your klister "zone" or klister "pocket" is shorter than your normal hardwax grip zone - usually shorter by an inch or two at the front and back of the grip zone. Use a permanent marker to redefine your klister as often as you can by marking it with a "k" on the sidewall of your skis. Experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. Base binders are less important with klisters, but if the snow is very icy and you plan on skiing more than 10km, consider using a base binder.
    4. With the klister tube, dab a thin layer in a chevron pattern. You may need to heat the tube with a heat gun or torch to make it flow nicely. Feel free to mix and match different klisters to make your own perfect mix. Often klisters are mixed 50/50, 70/30, etc... by wax techs.
    5. Using a heat source such as a dedicated kick wax iron, heat gun or torch, smooth out the klister. If you are using a heat gun or torch, use a cork a small metal-bristled chef's brush to smooth out the klister. If you are using an iron, make sure you only ever use it for kick wax. Have another iron for glide waxes only to avoid cross-contamination.
    6. Let the klister cool for a few minutes. Set the ski outside over the snow (but not touching the snow) to speed the cooling.
    7. Once the klister is cool, you may need to "cover" it. A "klister cover" is a couple of layers of hardwax used to give klister a bit more glide factor if the klister has too much "bite".

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
      255 in stock!
      $4.95
      $4.95
    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Synthetic Cork
      657 in stock!
      $9.95
      $9.95
    • Fibertex Green, Hand (3 sheets/pack)
      4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Wax Remover Spray 2.0
      40 in stock!
      $18.95
      $14.95
    • Rode Wax Remover 2.1 150mL Spray bottle
      527 in stock!
      $15.95
      $15.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95

    How to Apply Base Binder Kick Wax

    Base Binders are used as an underlayer for the grip wax of the day to improve durability. They have a tacky consistency and help improve how the wax of the day will stick on the ski base so it's a great idea to apply a couple of layers of base binder if you are planning on skiing more than 10km or if the snow is icy. In icy snow, it may be the case that base binder on its own will give you the best combination of grip and glide! Some klisters can also be used as a base binder when you need a more serious level of adhesion.

      Video in Swedish, but it will give you the idea. (English instructions below)

    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly 45cm long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. Crayon a layer of base binder over your entire grip zone. If you are using a klister binder, dab a thin layer in a cheveron pattern.
    4. Using a heat source such as a dedicated kick wax iron, heat gun or torch, smooth out the base binder. If you are using a heat gun or torch, use a cork to smooth out the base binder. If you are using an iron, make sure you only ever use it for kick wax. Have another iron for glide waxes only to avoid cross-contamination.
    5. Let the base binder cool for a few minutes. Set the ski outside to speed the cooling.
    6. Once the base binder is cool, apply another layer. Usually, two layers is enough but sometimes one layer is good or you may need three or more layers. When using base binder alone as your wax of the day, repeat 3-6 times.
    7. When the last layer has cooled you are now ready to apply the kick wax of the day on top!

      8. How to apply klister as a binder: (Again, in Swedish)

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
      255 in stock!
      $4.95
      $4.95
    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Synthetic Cork
      657 in stock!
      $9.95
      $9.95
    • Fibertex Green, Hand (3 sheets/pack)
      4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Wax Remover Spray 2.0
      40 in stock!
      $18.95
      $14.95
    • Rode Wax Remover 2.1 150mL Spray bottle
      527 in stock!
      $15.95
      $15.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95
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