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Plasto Cork Angle 1

Toko Plasto Cork

Synthetic cork for corking Grip and Klister waxes.

Ships World-Wide! $5 shipping on orders above $100 & Free-Shipping above $250 to all North American addresses!
For more information on delivery time estimates and shipping policies, click here. Nearly all items ship from our warehouse in Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada


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Application Methods

Safety Warning!

In the application process of some ski wax products, you and others can ba exposed to dangerous dust, fumes or residues. With the correct safety protolcols in place, these risks can be mitiagted and waxing can be very safe.

Safe Waxing protolcol:

  1. Always wax in a well-ventilated area. Outside is best. If you have to wax inside make sure there is some sort of air exchanger in place. Range hoods are best. Fans are better than nothing. Be sure to point out any lack of air exchanging equipment to the staff of any waxing facility or the race organizers.
  2. Whenever using any kind of heat in the waxing process (irons, heat guns, torches) always wear a respirator. Respirators that cover your eyes are best and check for a fluorocarbon rating on your respirator. Remember, the most dangerous fumes are not from powders but resins in grip wax and klisters. Wear a mask even when you are using non-fluorinated waxes since fumes from burnt paraffins are not OK to inhale. Respirators are required in the wax room.
  3. When creating any dust in the waxing process (brushing, scraping) always wear a respirator and gloves. Compounds in blocks, liquids, powders, klisters, and other hardwaxes can be absorbed through the skin. Wax companies keep their wax recipes secret so we have no idea what chemical compounds are present in most waxes nor their effects on the body. Always wear gloves while waxing to reduce your risk to negligible levels.
  4. People who are not waxing are not allowed in the wax room.
  5. Be sure to safely dispose of wax shavings and dust. Contained in a plastic garbage bag is adequate.

With the proper level of adult responsibility, any wax can be used perfectly safely and with negligible harm to the environment. Follow the correct safety protocols whenever you enter a wax room and be prepared with the right safety equipment. Remember to enjoy your fast skis to the max!

    How to Prepare your Ski Bases for Glide Waxing

    Whether you have a brand new pair of skis, a freshly stoneground ski, or a ski requiring maintenance after 200-300km on the trails, going through a base preparation process will clean out any dust or dirt as well as saturate and harden the base so it's ready for several outings. The base preparation process is the best way to maintain the health of your ski bases so they'll treat you to many years of fast glide. You'll also get the most out of any subsequent wax applications since a saturated and hardened base will provide an optimal anchor or any wax you apply on top.
    1. Begin by scraping a brushing out your base as thoroughly as possible. Use metal brushes if you have them.
    2. Clean your entire base with a base cleaner or wax remover. Wipe as much dirt and dust off with Fiberlene or shop towel.
    3. Using a piece of Fibertex, energetically rub-down the entire glide zone to remove any microscopic hairs or burrs in the base. Ski*Go's pink paper is also great for this.
    4. Melt a thick layer of the softest yellow paraffin wax you can find with an iron set to 110C to 120C.
    5. Before the yellow wax has had a chance to cool, gently scrape and observe how much dust/dirt comes up with the not-quite solid wax. No need to brush yet. If a lot of dirt comes up, melt and hot-scrape another layer of yellow wax.
    6. Once, the yellow wax has come off clean, apply another layer of yellow wax and let it cool.
    7. Scrape and brush the cooled yellow wax and iron on a layer of a harder paraffin wax. A blue, green, graphite or dedicated base wax is ideal for this. Melt, cool, brush, scrape and repeat at least three times.

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    How to Crayon and Cork Hardwaxes

    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly 45cm long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. If the snow is icy or if you're planning on skiing more than 10km, apply a base binder.
    4. Crayon on a thin, even layer of hardwax over the entire grip zone. Use the wax tin like a marker!
    5. Using a cork dedicated to either warm kick wax or cold wax, (it's a good idea to have a couple of corks: one for warm wax and another for cold wax to avoid cross-contamination between sticky and not-so-sticky waxes) cork in the layer of wax. The goal is to make each layer of wax good and smooth. Some waxes will become transparent when they are adequately corked.
    6. Apply and cork 2-6 layers hardwax until you reach the desired thickness. With kick waxes for warmer temperatures, having thicker layers than you'd normally use is important to achieve the same level of grip. With each successive layer of grip wax, shorten the length of the layer until you're only putting a short layer underneath the toe.

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    How to Apply Klister

    Video in Swedish, but it will give you the idea. (English instructions below)

    Klisters are the stickiest kick waxes. They're so sticky they come in a tube, like toothpaste. Klister is the best way to get grip in super icy snow or in very warm, wet snow. Klister is often viewed as a huge pain to use but it can actually be used just as easily as any hardwax. If you are skiing a shorter distance, red klisters and warmer can be applied with only a cork. You'll probably need a heat source for violet klisters and colder. The best kick you'll ever have will probably be on a klister day so don't miss out because you think it will be too messy!
    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. Because klister is meant to be applied very thick, your klister "zone" or klister "pocket" is shorter than your normal hardwax grip zone - usually shorter by an inch or two at the front and back of the grip zone. Use a permanent marker to redefine your klister as often as you can by marking it with a "k" on the sidewall of your skis. Experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. Base binders are less important with klisters, but if the snow is very icy and you plan on skiing more than 10km, consider using a base binder.
    4. With the klister tube, dab a thin layer in a chevron pattern. You may need to heat the tube with a heat gun or torch to make it flow nicely. Feel free to mix and match different klisters to make your own perfect mix. Often klisters are mixed 50/50, 70/30, etc... by wax techs.
    5. Using a heat source such as a dedicated kick wax iron, heat gun or torch, smooth out the klister. If you are using a heat gun or torch, use a cork a small metal-bristled chef's brush to smooth out the klister. If you are using an iron, make sure you only ever use it for kick wax. Have another iron for glide waxes only to avoid cross-contamination.
    6. Let the klister cool for a few minutes. Set the ski outside over the snow (but not touching the snow) to speed the cooling.
    7. Once the klister is cool, you may need to "cover" it. A "klister cover" is a couple of layers of hardwax used to give klister a bit more glide factor if the klister has too much "bite".

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