$5 shipping on orders above $100. Free shipping on orders over $250. Ships from Thunder Bay, ON, CAN.
Rode Iron Holder for Table.

Rode Iron Holder

An iron that clamps to waxing tables.

Ships World-Wide! $5 shipping on orders above $100 & Free-Shipping above $250 to all North American addresses!
For more information on delivery time estimates and shipping policies, click here. Nearly all items ship from our warehouse in Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada


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$119.95
$119.95
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About this series: Rode Waxing Tables
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Application Methods

Safety Warning!

In the application process of some ski wax products, you and others can ba exposed to dangerous dust, fumes or residues. With the correct safety protolcols in place, these risks can be mitiagted and waxing can be very safe.

Safe Waxing protolcol:

  1. Always wax in a well-ventilated area. Outside is best. If you have to wax inside make sure there is some sort of air exchanger in place. Range hoods are best. Fans are better than nothing. Be sure to point out any lack of air exchanging equipment to the staff of any waxing facility or the race organizers.
  2. Whenever using any kind of heat in the waxing process (irons, heat guns, torches) always wear a respirator. Respirators that cover your eyes are best and check for a fluorocarbon rating on your respirator. Remember, the most dangerous fumes are not from powders but resins in grip wax and klisters. Wear a mask even when you are using non-fluorinated waxes since fumes from burnt paraffins are not OK to inhale. Respirators are required in the wax room.
  3. When creating any dust in the waxing process (brushing, scraping) always wear a respirator and gloves. Compounds in blocks, liquids, powders, klisters, and other hardwaxes can be absorbed through the skin. Wax companies keep their wax recipes secret so we have no idea what chemical compounds are present in most waxes nor their effects on the body. Always wear gloves while waxing to reduce your risk to negligible levels.
  4. People who are not waxing are not allowed in the wax room.
  5. Be sure to safely dispose of wax shavings and dust. Contained in a plastic garbage bag is adequate.

With the proper level of adult responsibility, any wax can be used perfectly safely and with negligible harm to the environment. Follow the correct safety protocols whenever you enter a wax room and be prepared with the right safety equipment. Remember to enjoy your fast skis to the max!

    How to Prepare your Ski Bases for Glide Waxing

    Whether you have a brand new pair of skis, a freshly stoneground ski, or a ski requiring maintenance after 200-300km on the trails, going through a base preparation process will clean out any dust or dirt as well as saturate and harden the base so it's ready for several outings. The base preparation process is the best way to maintain the health of your ski bases so they'll treat you to many years of fast glide. You'll also get the most out of any subsequent wax applications since a saturated and hardened base will provide an optimal anchor or any wax you apply on top.
    1. Begin by scraping a brushing out your base as thoroughly as possible. Use metal brushes if you have them.
    2. Clean your entire base with a base cleaner or wax remover. Wipe as much dirt and dust off with Fiberlene or shop towel.
    3. Using a piece of Fibertex, energetically rub-down the entire glide zone to remove any microscopic hairs or burrs in the base. Ski*Go's pink paper is also great for this.
    4. Melt a thick layer of the softest yellow paraffin wax you can find with an iron set to 110C to 120C.
    5. Before the yellow wax has had a chance to cool, gently scrape and observe how much dust/dirt comes up with the not-quite solid wax. No need to brush yet. If a lot of dirt comes up, melt and hot-scrape another layer of yellow wax.
    6. Once, the yellow wax has come off clean, apply another layer of yellow wax and let it cool.
    7. Scrape and brush the cooled yellow wax and iron on a layer of a harder paraffin wax. A blue, green, graphite or dedicated base wax is ideal for this. Melt, cool, brush, scrape and repeat at least three times.

    Tools for the Job

    • Groove Scraper
      246 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Rode 3mm Plexiglass scraper
      408 in stock!
      $8.95
      $8.95
    • Fibertex Green, Hand (3 sheets/pack)
      4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      152 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • Green Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Red Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Horsehair Handbrush
      98 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
      151 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Glider Cleaner
      73 in stock!
      $35.95
      $35.95
    • Bronze Handbrush
      160 in stock!
      $49.95
      $49.95
    • Hard Nylon Roto Brush
      34 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Horsehair Roto Brush
      28 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Soft Nylon Roto Brush
      31 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Roto Handle
      193 in stock!
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95
    • Non-Digital Waxing Iron / 160°C / 15mm plate / 110v / (DIAL, Non Digital)
      3 in stock!
      $319.95
      $319.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / (Dial Control, Digital Readout)
      2 in stock!
      $444.95
      $444.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      1 in stock!
      $519.95
      $519.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 200°C / 25mm plate / 110v / (Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      $799.95
      $799.95

    How to Iron Paraffin Waxes (Hot Waxing or Melt Waxing)

    Instructional video in Swedish, but it gives you the idea. English instructions below:

    The bread and butter of glide waxing. Using an iron to apply paraffin blocks of melt wax is the classic, timeless way to get your skis going speedy. Using an iron is a skill and takes a bit to master, but if you work at it you won't have to on the trails!
    1. Begin by making sure your skis are clean. Scraped then brush gently with a steel or brass brush.
    2. Using a piece of Fibertex, energetically rub-down the entire glide zone to remove any microscopic hairs or burrs in the base. Ski*Go's pink paper is also great for this. Your ski is now clean and prepped for the paraffin wax.
    3. Pre-heat your iron to the temperature recommended by the wax company for the particular wax you will be using. Temperatures for paraffin waxes are usually between 110C and 160C.
    4. Melt thin bead of the wax of the day down the ski on one side of the groove and back up the other side. Hold the iron with the plate vertical and touch one of the bottom corners to the ski base. Hold the block of wax in the other hand and touch it to the iron to melt it. Move quickly to apply the right amount of wax. Make sure the iron's electrical cord isn't going to get caught or knock anything over. I do not recommend holding the iron above the ski and letting drips fall onto the ski. It is very difficult to wax consistently this way and you will waste wax when you miss the ski entirely and drip hot wax onto your feet. Another method to get the wax on the ski is one I use when I'm applying precious, expensive HF paraffins: Quickly tap the paraffin block to the bottom of the iron and in a quick motion drag the still-hot block along the base until all the liquified wax has stuck to the base. Repeat by quickly touching the block to the iron again and repeat until the entire glide zone is covered with a thin layer of wax.
    5. Once the wax is on the ski set aside the block of wax and use the iron to melt the wax into the base. Hold the iron with a light pressure and run it down the ski from tip to tail careful not to let the iron rest in one place for too long. The paraffin should liquify for a couple of seconds but harden after a few seconds. If the wax is liquified for more than a few seconds you are not moving the iron fast enough. If you move the iron too fast the wax will become solid after a second or less. Try to completely cover one side of the ski's groove with the paraffin on the first pass by angling the pressure of the iron with your hand. Cover the other side of the groove on the second pass. On the third pass, apply pressure evenly across the ski.
    6. Use a groove scraper to remove wax from the sidewalls and the ski's groove(s).
    7. Let the ski cool. 5 minutes.
    8. Using a sharp scraper, scrape off the excess paraffin. Scrape like you mean it, but don't press too hard. Angle the scraper forward and place your thumbs behind and at the bottom of the scaper. Scrape from tip to tail.
    9. After scraping, pass a steel or brass brush 5-6 times using a light pressure. Start at the tip and move to the tail.
    10. If you like, you can polish the base using a nylon hand brush or nylon roto-brush.
    11. Consider finishing your ski by adding structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper.

    Tools for the Job

    • Groove Scraper
      246 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Rode 3mm Plexiglass scraper
      408 in stock!
      $8.95
      $8.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      152 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • Green Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Red Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Horsehair Handbrush
      98 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
      151 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Glider Cleaner
      73 in stock!
      $35.95
      $35.95
    • Bronze Handbrush
      160 in stock!
      $49.95
      $49.95
    • Hard Nylon Roto Brush
      34 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Horsehair Roto Brush
      28 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Soft Nylon Roto Brush
      31 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Roto Handle
      193 in stock!
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95
    • Non-Digital Waxing Iron / 160°C / 15mm plate / 110v / (DIAL, Non Digital)
      3 in stock!
      $319.95
      $319.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / (Dial Control, Digital Readout)
      2 in stock!
      $444.95
      $444.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      1 in stock!
      $519.95
      $519.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 200°C / 25mm plate / 110v / (Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      $799.95
      $799.95

    How to Apply Powdered Glide Waxes

    Instructional video in Swedish, but it gives you the idea. English instructions below:

    Falsely condisered an advanced waxing technique, applying glide powders is acutally very easy. Most powders require an iron temperature of 180C or more so make sure you have a high-quality iron that will reach 180C.
    1. Begin by making sure your skis are clean. Scrape then brush gently with a steel or brass brush and treated with a base cleaner if required. Powders can be applied to a completely bare base in warm conditions, or over a base paraffin - generally in colder conditions.
    2. Pre-heat your iron to the temperature recommended by the wax company for the particular powder you will be using. Iron temperatures for powders are usually between 160C and 180C.
    3. Tap a line of powder up and down the ski on both sides of the groove.
    4. Using the iron, stamp down the powder to quickly melt it into the base. Because the iron is so hot, be careful not to let it rest in one place for too long.
    5. Give the powder one more quick pass with the iron. Don't worry about melting all the powder into the base at this point. Our main concern is not to burn the ski base.
    6. Let the ski cool. 5 minutes.
    7. Using a nylon brush dedicated for pure fluoro use only, loosen the powder. You can now iron, cork, or roto cork the powder in one more time for better durability and speed.
    8. Let the ski cool one more time.
    9. Using a horsehair hand brush or roto brush, vigorously brush away the excess left-over wax. 8-10 passes with a hand brush should be enough or a few passes with the roto-brush.
    10. For colder powders, give the ski a few passes with a steel or brass brush. Start at the tip and move to the tail using a very light pressure.
    11. To polish, use a nylon hand brush or nylon roto-brush. 10-15 passes with a hand brush or 3-4 with a roto brush should be plenty. Your ski base should now be very shiny.
    12. Consider topping off your ski by adding a quick layer of liquid wax or puck, structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper. Your skis are now race ready!

    Tools for the Job

    • Groove Scraper
      246 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Rode 3mm Plexiglass scraper
      408 in stock!
      $8.95
      $8.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      152 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • Green Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Red Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Horsehair Handbrush
      98 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
      151 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Glider Cleaner
      73 in stock!
      $35.95
      $35.95
    • Bronze Handbrush
      160 in stock!
      $49.95
      $49.95
    • Horsehair Roto Brush
      28 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Hard Nylon Roto Brush
      34 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Soft Nylon Roto Brush
      31 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Roto Handle
      193 in stock!
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Roto Cork 100mm
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / (Dial Control, Digital Readout)
      2 in stock!
      $444.95
      $444.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      1 in stock!
      $519.95
      $519.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 200°C / 25mm plate / 110v / (Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      $799.95
      $799.95

    How to Apply Glide Pucks

    Instructional video in Swedish, but it gives you the idea. English instrctions below:

    Pucks are a fantastic way to get the highest level of glide. Pucks are typically one of the fastest pure fluoros. Unfortunately they only remain on the ski base for 5km or so. Past 5km they may not be reliably durable. Pucks are very cost-effective because of how efficiently the product is used.
    1. Begin by applying a base paraffin that suits the day's snow conditions. Scrape and brush.
    2. Gently rub a layer of the puck to cover the entire glide zone.
    3. Use a hand cork or roto cork to vigorously rub-down the entire glide zone. The goal is to create as much heat friction as possible. After a minute or so of energetic corking, you can reach temperatures of up to 130C!
    4. Instead of corking, you can iron in the puck. Make sure to keep a layer of either glide tape or Fiberlene between the iron and the base. This is to avoid burning the base since the iron will be set to 180C. Another method is to use a wool or fleece applicator instead of a cork to achieve heat friction.
    5. Using a horsehair hand brush or roto brush, vigorously brush away the excess left-over wax. 8-10 passes with a hand brush should be enough or a few passes with the roto-brush.
    6. To polish, use a nylon hand brush or nylon roto-brush. 10-15 passes with a hand brush or roto brush should be plenty. Your ski base should now be very shiny.
    7. Consider finishing your ski by adding structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper.

    Tools for the Job

    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      152 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • Green Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Red Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Horsehair Handbrush
      98 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
      151 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Hand Cork: BIG Friction
      12 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Glider Cleaner
      73 in stock!
      $35.95
      $35.95
    • Hard Nylon Roto Brush
      34 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Horsehair Roto Brush
      28 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Soft Nylon Roto Brush
      31 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Roto Cork
      9 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Roto Handle
      193 in stock!
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Roto Cork 100mm
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95
    • Wool Applicator For Engine
      7 in stock!
      $159.95
      $159.95
    • Roto Cork
      4 in stock!
      $159.95
      $159.95

    How to Cork Liquid Glide Waxes

    Instructional video in Swedish, but it gives you the idea. English instrctions below:

    Some liquids glide waxes require corking as part of their application process. For example, Ski*Go's pure fluoro fluids line requres a vigorous corking to achieve the best speed and durability from the product.
    1. Begin by applying a base paraffin that suits the day's snow conditions if required. Scrape and brush.
    2. Using the bottle's dabber, apply a good coat of the liquid wax over the entire glide zone.
    3. Set the ski aside until the liquid is visibly dry. It can take several minutes for the solvents to evaporate.
    4. Once the liquid is dry, use a hand cork or roto cork to vigorously rub-down the entire glide zone. The goal is to create as much heat friction as possible. After a minute or so of energetic corking, you can reach temperatures of up to 130C!
    5. Using a horsehair hand brush or roto brush, vigorously brush away the excess left-over wax. 8-10 passes with a hand brush should be enough or a few passes with the roto-brush.
    6. To polish, use a nylon hand brush or nylon roto-brush. 10-15 passes with a hand brush or 3-4 with a roto brush should be plenty. Your ski base should now be very shiny.
    7. Consider finishing your ski by adding structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper.

    Tools for the Job

    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      152 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • Green Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Red Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Horsehair Handbrush
      98 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
      151 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Hand Cork: BIG Friction
      12 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Glider Cleaner
      73 in stock!
      $35.95
      $35.95
    • Horsehair Roto Brush
      28 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Hard Nylon Roto Brush
      34 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Roto Cork
      9 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Soft Nylon Roto Brush
      31 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Roto Handle
      193 in stock!
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Roto Cork 100mm
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95
    • Roto Cork
      4 in stock!
      $159.95
      $159.95
    • Wool Applicator For Engine
      7 in stock!
      $159.95
      $159.95

    How to Apply Wipe and Go Liquids

    Most liquid glide waxes are very simple and quick to apply. They are a fantastic way to get your skis primed without an entire wax box full of tools. In the waxing world, liquid glide waxes are seeing the most research and development. Season after season, new and improved liquid waxes are becoming available.
    1. If you are skiing more than 15km, begin by applying a base paraffin that suits the day's snow conditions. Scrape and brush.
    2. Using the bottle's dabber, apply a good coat of the liquid wax over the entire glide zone.
    3. Set the ski aside until the liquid is visibly dry. It can take several minutes for the solvents to evaporate.
    4. Once the liquid is dry, it's time to polish! Use a nylon hand brush or nylon roto-brush. 10-15 passes with a hand brush or several passes with a roto brush should be plenty. Your ski base should now be very shiny. You can completely skip the polishing step if you can deal with slower skis for the first 2-3km.
    5. Consider finishing your ski by adding structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper.

    Tools for the Job

    • Shop Towel Roll
      26 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Fiber Paper
      83 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      152 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • Green Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Red Nylon Mini Hand Brush
      1 in stock!
      $23.95
      $23.95
    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
      151 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      94 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Glider Cleaner
      73 in stock!
      $35.95
      $35.95
    • Hard Nylon Roto Brush
      34 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • Soft Nylon Roto Brush
      31 in stock!
      $65.95
      $65.95
    • .
      38 in stock!
      $299.95
      $299.95
    • Roto Handle
      193 in stock!
      $99.95
      $99.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95

    How to Cold-Apply Pucks (Fleecing)

    Instructional video in Italian, but it gives you the idea. English instrctions below:

    Cold-Apply aka 'Fleecing' is a quick and easy way to get amazingly fast skis. The system uses friction-heat generated by a roto wool applicator to apply a perfect, thin layer of wax to the ski base. The kilometrage you get out of waxes applied by this method tends to be good, but the standout feature is the raw speed of the skis it produces - particularly in warmer temperatures. Fleecing leaves the bare minimum amount of product on the base. This is fantastic because the ski bases' natural structure or stone grind is maximally exposed to the snowpack. Fleeced waxes can be applied either on a completely bare, clean base or a paraffin base wax. As temperatures get colder, it's recommended to fleece over a hard base paraffin. Fleecing produces very little dust or fumes and uses wax very efficiently. The number of steps involved in preparing a fast pair of skis is reduced when compared to other application methods. The speed of skis, speed of application, health and safety, and cost of the cold-apply system make it very attractive. Most people don't know this, but you can fleece any puck from any brand, not just the MasterWax or YESwax pucks. You can also fleece most liquid waxes (once the solvents have evaporated) as long as they do not contain silicone compounds.
    1. Begin by scraping a brushing out your base as thoroughly as possible. Use steel brushes if you have one. Bronze brushes are second-best.
    2. Clean your entire base with a base cleaner or wax remover. Wipe as much dirt and dust off with Fiberlene or shop towel.
    3. Using a piece of Fibertex, energetically rub-down the entire glide zone to remove any microscopic hairs or burrs in the base. Ski*Go's pink paper is also great for this.
    4. If temperatures outside are below -7C, it is recommended to iron, scrape and brush a layer of very hard paraffin melt wax. A green wax is best, blue is second-best.
    5. In your head, mentally divide your wool applicator or roto-fleece in half. Load up half the applicator with product by gently touching the puck to the rotating applicator. Leave the other half of the applicator clean. The clean side is for buffing later on.
    6. Taking the clean ski and using medium force, run the loaded side of the applicator up and down the ski a few times to apply the product.
    7. Once the ski is loaded, switch to the clean side of the applicator and using slightly more pressure, buff out the ski several more times.
    8. Your ski should now be shiny and ready to go fast!

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    How to Apply Glide Tape


    1. Begin by making sure your skis are clean. Scraped, brushed and ready for wax.
    2. Unroll the glide tape covering the entire glide zone. Make sure the side of the tape marked up is facing up.
    3. Using an iron set to 180C (Very hot. Most irons can't achieve this temperture so make sure you have a high-quality iron.) quickly pass the iron over the tape without letting the iron rest in any one place for very long. We want to avoid over-heating the base and damaging your skis.
    4. Remove the tape and immediately pass the iron over the wax again. Move the iron even faster this time and be twice as careful not to let the iron stay in one spot.
    5. Since glide tape waxes are extremely hard, take a hard nylon hand brush or hard nylon roto brush to the base before the wax has a chance to cool and harden.
    6. Set the ski aside to cool. 5 minutes.
    7. Once the ski is cool, vigorously use a horsehair brush or roto brush to remove the excess wax. There is no need to scrape glide tape!
    8. Next, pass a steel or brass hand brush down the ski in the direction of travel (from the tip towards the tail) for 4-5 passes using a light pressure.
    9. Polish the base with a hard nylon hand brush or roto brush. Brush vigourously until the base is very shiny.
    10. Consider finishing your ski by adding structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper.

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    Cold Weather Waxing
    Warm Weather Waxing

    How to Crayon and Cork Hardwaxes

    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly 45cm long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. If the snow is icy or if you're planning on skiing more than 10km, apply a base binder.
    4. Crayon on a thin, even layer of hardwax over the entire grip zone. Use the wax tin like a marker!
    5. Using a cork dedicated to either warm kick wax or cold wax, (it's a good idea to have a couple of corks: one for warm wax and another for cold wax to avoid cross-contamination between sticky and not-so-sticky waxes) cork in the layer of wax. The goal is to make each layer of wax good and smooth. Some waxes will become transparent when they are adequately corked.
    6. Apply and cork 2-6 layers hardwax until you reach the desired thickness. With kick waxes for warmer temperatures, having thicker layers than you'd normally use is important to achieve the same level of grip. With each successive layer of grip wax, shorten the length of the layer until you're only putting a short layer underneath the toe.

    Tools for the Job

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    How to Apply Sticky Hardwaxes

    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly 45cm long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. If the snow is icy or if you're planning on skiing more than 10km, apply a base binder.
    4. At room temperature, apply the sticky hardwax by placing the tin of wax on the ski and twisting without dragging it along the ski base. Continue down the ski, twisting as you go, until the entire grip zone is covered with stringy wax. Twisting, instead of crayoning as you normally would with a harder wax, will give you an evener application and fewer "globs".
    5. Using a cork dedicated to warm kick wax, (it's a good idea to have a couple of corks: one for warm wax and another for cold wax to avoid cross-contamination between sticky and not-so-sticky waxes) cork in the layer of wax. The goal is to make each layer of wax good and smooth. Some waxes will become transparent when they are adequately corked.
    6. Apply and cork 2-6 layers of the sticky hardwax until you reach the desired thickness. With kick waxes for warmer temperatures, having thicker layers than you'd normally use is important to achieve the same level of grip.

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
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    How to Apply Klister

    Video in Swedish, but it will give you the idea. (English instructions below)

    Klisters are the stickiest kick waxes. They're so sticky they come in a tube, like toothpaste. Klister is the best way to get grip in super icy snow or in very warm, wet snow. Klister is often viewed as a huge pain to use but it can actually be used just as easily as any hardwax. If you are skiing a shorter distance, red klisters and warmer can be applied with only a cork. You'll probably need a heat source for violet klisters and colder. The best kick you'll ever have will probably be on a klister day so don't miss out because you think it will be too messy!
    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. Because klister is meant to be applied very thick, your klister "zone" or klister "pocket" is shorter than your normal hardwax grip zone - usually shorter by an inch or two at the front and back of the grip zone. Use a permanent marker to redefine your klister as often as you can by marking it with a "k" on the sidewall of your skis. Experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. Base binders are less important with klisters, but if the snow is very icy and you plan on skiing more than 10km, consider using a base binder.
    4. With the klister tube, dab a thin layer in a chevron pattern. You may need to heat the tube with a heat gun or torch to make it flow nicely. Feel free to mix and match different klisters to make your own perfect mix. Often klisters are mixed 50/50, 70/30, etc... by wax techs.
    5. Using a heat source such as a dedicated kick wax iron, heat gun or torch, smooth out the klister. If you are using a heat gun or torch, use a cork a small metal-bristled chef's brush to smooth out the klister. If you are using an iron, make sure you only ever use it for kick wax. Have another iron for glide waxes only to avoid cross-contamination.
    6. Let the klister cool for a few minutes. Set the ski outside over the snow (but not touching the snow) to speed the cooling.
    7. Once the klister is cool, you may need to "cover" it. A "klister cover" is a couple of layers of hardwax used to give klister a bit more glide factor if the klister has too much "bite".

    Tools for the Job

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    How to Apply Liquid Hardwaxes

    Instructional video in Finnish. English instructions below:

    Liquid kick waxes are an incredibly easy way to apply kick wax. No need for a cork or even a wax bench!
    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly two feet (60cm) long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. If the snow is icy or if you're planning on skiing more than 10km, apply a base binder. Using a liquid base binder is ideal since you are using liquid kick waxes anyway.
    4. At room temperature, apply the liquid kick wax using the foam dabber. Push the foam into the ski to release some liquid onto the ski, then gently spread it out until the entire kick zone is covered with an even layer of wax.
    5. Set the ski outside to cool. It could take 10min for the wax to fully cool.
    6. Apply another layer or two until you have your prefered kick wax thickness.

    Tools for the Job

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    How to Apply Spray Klister

    An instructional video in Swedish. It should give you the idea:

    How to Apply Base Binder Kick Wax

    Base Binders are used as an underlayer for the grip wax of the day to improve durability. They have a tacky consistency and help improve how the wax of the day will stick on the ski base so it's a great idea to apply a couple of layers of base binder if you are planning on skiing more than 10km or if the snow is icy. In icy snow, it may be the case that base binder on its own will give you the best combination of grip and glide! Some klisters can also be used as a base binder when you need a more serious level of adhesion.

      Video in Swedish, but it will give you the idea. (English instructions below)

    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly 45cm long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. Crayon a layer of base binder over your entire grip zone. If you are using a klister binder, dab a thin layer in a cheveron pattern.
    4. Using a heat source such as a dedicated kick wax iron, heat gun or torch, smooth out the base binder. If you are using a heat gun or torch, use a cork to smooth out the base binder. If you are using an iron, make sure you only ever use it for kick wax. Have another iron for glide waxes only to avoid cross-contamination.
    5. Let the base binder cool for a few minutes. Set the ski outside to speed the cooling.
    6. Once the base binder is cool, apply another layer. Usually, two layers is enough but sometimes one layer is good or you may need three or more layers. When using base binder alone as your wax of the day, repeat 3-6 times.
    7. When the last layer has cooled you are now ready to apply the kick wax of the day on top!

      8. How to apply klister as a binder: (Again, in Swedish)

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
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