Why Buy It: A modern kick wax for temperatures where it's tricky to get good grip and glide at the same time. This wax along with the other T-lines are racing waxes developed for the World Cup in the early 2010s. As many of the other Rode kick waxes, the rode T-lines have a double temperature, due to the different performance relative to the geographical position in which they are used. They are suitable for new snow or not yet transformed snow, around the freezing point.
Cost Breakdown: How many pairs of skis can be waxed with this product?
Option
Waxes This Many Pairs Cross Country Skis:
Cost Per Application:
Comparative Price:
45g
65
$0.40 CAD
$
$
$
$
$
Newer Snow between 0.0°C and -4.0°C
Recommended for:
- Fresh Falling Snow
- New Snow
- Transforming Snow
Features
- Comes in a 45g tin
- The labeling is on the bottom of the tin
- Rode Recommendation for Middle-Europe Snow: 0C/-1C
- Rode Recommendation for Northern Europe Snow: -2C/-4C
Application Methods
Safety Warning!
In the application process of some ski wax products, you and others can ba exposed to dangerous dust, fumes or residues. With the correct safety protolcols in place, these risks can be mitiagted and waxing can be very safe.
Safe Waxing protolcol:
- Always wax in a well-ventilated area. Outside is best. If you have to wax inside make sure there is some sort of air exchanger in place. Range hoods are best. Fans are better than nothing. Be sure to point out any lack of air exchanging equipment to the staff of any waxing facility or the race organizers.
- Whenever using any kind of heat in the waxing process (irons, heat guns, torches) always wear a respirator. Respirators that cover your eyes are best and check for a fluorocarbon rating on your respirator. Remember, the most dangerous fumes are not from powders but resins in grip wax and klisters. Wear a mask even when you are using non-fluorinated waxes since fumes from burnt paraffins are not OK to inhale. Respirators are required in the wax room.
- When creating any dust in the waxing process (brushing, scraping) always wear a respirator and gloves. Compounds in blocks, liquids, powders, klisters, and other hardwaxes can be absorbed through the skin. Wax companies keep their wax recipes secret so we have no idea what chemical compounds are present in most waxes nor their effects on the body. Always wear gloves while waxing to reduce your risk to negligible levels.
- People who are not waxing are not allowed in the wax room.
- Be sure to safely dispose of wax shavings and dust. Contained in a plastic garbage bag is adequate.
With the proper level of adult responsibility, any wax can be used perfectly safely and with negligible harm to the environment. Follow the correct safety protocols whenever you enter a wax room and be prepared with the right safety equipment. Remember to enjoy your fast skis to the max!
- Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly 45cm long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
- Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
- If the snow is icy or if you're planning on skiing more than 10km, apply a base binder.
- Crayon on a thin, even layer of hardwax over the entire grip zone. Use the wax tin like a marker!
- Using a cork dedicated to either warm kick wax or cold wax, (it's a good idea to have a couple of corks: one for warm wax and another for cold wax to avoid cross-contamination between sticky and not-so-sticky waxes) cork in the layer of wax. The goal is to make each layer of wax good and smooth. Some waxes will become transparent when they are adequately corked.
- Apply and cork 2-6 layers hardwax until you reach the desired thickness. With kick waxes for warmer temperatures, having thicker layers than you'd normally use is important to achieve the same level of grip. With each successive layer of grip wax, shorten the length of the layer until you're only putting a short layer underneath the toe.
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Vauhti Sandpaper for synthetic cork (3 pcs) 80 (Coarse)|100 (Medium)|120 (Fine)
![Replacement Sandpaper for Vauhti's Sandpaper Cork.]()
- Regular price
- $10.00
- Sale price
- $10.00
- Unit price
- per
How to Crayon and Cork Hardwaxes
Tools for the Job
- When you are done skiing, remove the sticky wax as soon as possible (when it's still cold). You'll have less of a mess if the wax is still chilled. Otherwise, you may find it easier to scrape off at room temperature but the trade-off is the wax will be goopy, flow, and will get everywhere!
- Use a grip wax scraper to remove as much of the wax as you can.
- Squirt a decent amount of wax remover on the grip zone and let it sit for a minute or two.
- Leaving the wax remover on the grip zone, use a bit of Fibertex to rub off any kick wax still stuck to the base until the wax remover is a yucky slurry. Be sure to thoroughly clean the sidewalls and groove of the ski with the Fibertex.
- Use a piece of Fiberlene or shop towel to wipe off the slurry from the grip zone and sidewalls.
- Soak a section of Fiberlene or shop towel with wax remover and wipe down the grip zone and sidewalls until there's no more stickiness.
- Your skis are now ready for travel or storage and your future self will thank you for taking care of business!
How to Remove Kick Wax
Some extra steps specifically for klister removal: (Again in Swedish: See below for English instructions)
