Why Buy It: A modern klister developed for the world cup in the early 2010s. The T-line K3 is for wet old snow. The softest and warmest of the T-line series
Cost Breakdown: How many pairs of skis can be waxed with this product?
Option
Waxes This Many Pairs Cross Country Skis:
Cost Per Application:
Comparative Price:
60g
20
$2.00 CAD
$
$
$
$
$
between 3.0°C and 0.0°C
Recommended for:
- Transformed Snow
- Old Snow
- Icy Snow
- Man-Made Snow
Features
- Comes in a 60g tube
Application Methods
Safety Warning!
In the application process of some ski wax products, you and others can ba exposed to dangerous dust, fumes or residues. With the correct safety protolcols in place, these risks can be mitiagted and waxing can be very safe.
Safe Waxing protolcol:
- Always wax in a well-ventilated area. Outside is best. If you have to wax inside make sure there is some sort of air exchanger in place. Range hoods are best. Fans are better than nothing. Be sure to point out any lack of air exchanging equipment to the staff of any waxing facility or the race organizers.
- Whenever using any kind of heat in the waxing process (irons, heat guns, torches) always wear a respirator. Respirators that cover your eyes are best and check for a fluorocarbon rating on your respirator. Remember, the most dangerous fumes are not from powders but resins in grip wax and klisters. Wear a mask even when you are using non-fluorinated waxes since fumes from burnt paraffins are not OK to inhale. Respirators are required in the wax room.
- When creating any dust in the waxing process (brushing, scraping) always wear a respirator and gloves. Compounds in blocks, liquids, powders, klisters, and other hardwaxes can be absorbed through the skin. Wax companies keep their wax recipes secret so we have no idea what chemical compounds are present in most waxes nor their effects on the body. Always wear gloves while waxing to reduce your risk to negligible levels.
- People who are not waxing are not allowed in the wax room.
- Be sure to safely dispose of wax shavings and dust. Contained in a plastic garbage bag is adequate.
With the proper level of adult responsibility, any wax can be used perfectly safely and with negligible harm to the environment. Follow the correct safety protocols whenever you enter a wax room and be prepared with the right safety equipment. Remember to enjoy your fast skis to the max!
- Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. Because klister is meant to be applied very thick, your klister "zone" or klister "pocket" is shorter than your normal hardwax grip zone - usually shorter by an inch or two at the front and back of the grip zone. Use a permanent marker to redefine your klister as often as you can by marking it with a "k" on the sidewall of your skis. Experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
- Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
- Base binders are less important with klisters, but if the snow is very icy and you plan on skiing more than 10km, consider using a base binder.
- With the klister tube, dab a thin layer in a chevron pattern. You may need to heat the tube with a heat gun or torch to make it flow nicely. Feel free to mix and match different klisters to make your own perfect mix. Often klisters are mixed 50/50, 70/30, etc... by wax techs.
- Using a heat source such as a dedicated kick wax iron, heat gun or torch, smooth out the klister. If you are using a heat gun or torch, use a cork a small metal-bristled chef's brush to smooth out the klister. If you are using an iron, make sure you only ever use it for kick wax. Have another iron for glide waxes only to avoid cross-contamination.
- Let the klister cool for a few minutes. Set the ski outside over the snow (but not touching the snow) to speed the cooling.
- Once the klister is cool, you may need to "cover" it. A "klister cover" is a couple of layers of hardwax used to give klister a bit more glide factor if the klister has too much "bite".
How to Apply Klister
Video in Swedish, but it will give you the idea. (English instructions below)
Klisters are the stickiest kick waxes. They're so sticky they come in a tube, like toothpaste. Klister is the best way to get grip in super icy snow or in very warm, wet snow. Klister is often viewed as a huge pain to use but it can actually be used just as easily as any hardwax. If you are skiing a shorter distance, red klisters and warmer can be applied with only a cork. You'll probably need a heat source for violet klisters and colder. The best kick you'll ever have will probably be on a klister day so don't miss out because you think it will be too messy!
Tools for the Job
- When you are done skiing, remove the sticky wax as soon as possible (when it's still cold). You'll have less of a mess if the wax is still chilled. Otherwise, you may find it easier to scrape off at room temperature but the trade-off is the wax will be goopy, flow, and will get everywhere!
- Use a grip wax scraper to remove as much of the wax as you can.
- Squirt a decent amount of wax remover on the grip zone and let it sit for a minute or two.
- Leaving the wax remover on the grip zone, use a bit of Fibertex to rub off any kick wax still stuck to the base until the wax remover is a yucky slurry. Be sure to thoroughly clean the sidewalls and groove of the ski with the Fibertex.
- Use a piece of Fiberlene or shop towel to wipe off the slurry from the grip zone and sidewalls.
- Soak a section of Fiberlene or shop towel with wax remover and wipe down the grip zone and sidewalls until there's no more stickiness.
- Your skis are now ready for travel or storage and your future self will thank you for taking care of business!
How to Remove Kick Wax
Some extra steps specifically for klister removal: (Again in Swedish: See below for English instructions)
