$5 shipping on orders above $100. Free shipping on orders over $250. Ships from Thunder Bay, ON, CAN.
Wax Remover Kit

Rode Wax Remover Kit

Wax remover, fiberlene, and a Multiscraper. A kit with all you need to take care of the messiest grip wax or klister applications.

Ships World-Wide! $5 shipping on orders above $100 & Free-Shipping above $250 to all North American addresses!
For more information on delivery time estimates and shipping policies, click here. Nearly all items ship from our warehouse in Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada


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AR220
80
Ships in 1-2 Days
$39.95
$39.95
Features
  1. Comes with an easy-to-use 150mL spray bottle of wax remover.
  2. A 25 meter roll of fiberlene is also included.
  3. A handy Multiscraper with a groove tool.
  4. Make sure you also purchase a few sheets of fibertex to help with the wax removal process.
More Rode Wax Removers:
About this series: Rode Wax Removers
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Application Methods

Safety Warning!

In the application process of some ski wax products, you and others can ba exposed to dangerous dust, fumes or residues. With the correct safety protolcols in place, these risks can be mitiagted and waxing can be very safe.

Safe Waxing protolcol:

  1. Always wax in a well-ventilated area. Outside is best. If you have to wax inside make sure there is some sort of air exchanger in place. Range hoods are best. Fans are better than nothing. Be sure to point out any lack of air exchanging equipment to the staff of any waxing facility or the race organizers.
  2. Whenever using any kind of heat in the waxing process (irons, heat guns, torches) always wear a respirator. Respirators that cover your eyes are best and check for a fluorocarbon rating on your respirator. Remember, the most dangerous fumes are not from powders but resins in grip wax and klisters. Wear a mask even when you are using non-fluorinated waxes since fumes from burnt paraffins are not OK to inhale. Respirators are required in the wax room.
  3. When creating any dust in the waxing process (brushing, scraping) always wear a respirator and gloves. Compounds in blocks, liquids, powders, klisters, and other hardwaxes can be absorbed through the skin. Wax companies keep their wax recipes secret so we have no idea what chemical compounds are present in most waxes nor their effects on the body. Always wear gloves while waxing to reduce your risk to negligible levels.
  4. People who are not waxing are not allowed in the wax room.
  5. Be sure to safely dispose of wax shavings and dust. Contained in a plastic garbage bag is adequate.

With the proper level of adult responsibility, any wax can be used perfectly safely and with negligible harm to the environment. Follow the correct safety protocols whenever you enter a wax room and be prepared with the right safety equipment. Remember to enjoy your fast skis to the max!

    How to Crayon and Cork Hardwaxes

    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly 45cm long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. If the snow is icy or if you're planning on skiing more than 10km, apply a base binder.
    4. Crayon on a thin, even layer of hardwax over the entire grip zone. Use the wax tin like a marker!
    5. Using a cork dedicated to either warm kick wax or cold wax, (it's a good idea to have a couple of corks: one for warm wax and another for cold wax to avoid cross-contamination between sticky and not-so-sticky waxes) cork in the layer of wax. The goal is to make each layer of wax good and smooth. Some waxes will become transparent when they are adequately corked.
    6. Apply and cork 2-6 layers hardwax until you reach the desired thickness. With kick waxes for warmer temperatures, having thicker layers than you'd normally use is important to achieve the same level of grip. With each successive layer of grip wax, shorten the length of the layer until you're only putting a short layer underneath the toe.

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
      255 in stock!
      $3.95
      $3.95
    • 25 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Synthetic Cork
      655 in stock!
      $9.95
      $9.95
    • 4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Wax Remover Spray 2.0
      39 in stock!
      $17.95
      $13.95
    • Fiber Paper
      81 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wax Remover 2.1 150mL Spray bottle
      527 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      92 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • CWS Proform AL-1 Waxing bench Station
      38 in stock!
      $669.95
      $669.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95

    How to Apply Sticky Hardwaxes

    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly 45cm long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. If the snow is icy or if you're planning on skiing more than 10km, apply a base binder.
    4. At room temperature, apply the sticky hardwax by placing the tin of wax on the ski and twisting without dragging it along the ski base. Continue down the ski, twisting as you go, until the entire grip zone is covered with stringy wax. Twisting, instead of crayoning as you normally would with a harder wax, will give you an evener application and fewer "globs".
    5. Using a cork dedicated to warm kick wax, (it's a good idea to have a couple of corks: one for warm wax and another for cold wax to avoid cross-contamination between sticky and not-so-sticky waxes) cork in the layer of wax. The goal is to make each layer of wax good and smooth. Some waxes will become transparent when they are adequately corked.
    6. Apply and cork 2-6 layers of the sticky hardwax until you reach the desired thickness. With kick waxes for warmer temperatures, having thicker layers than you'd normally use is important to achieve the same level of grip.

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
      255 in stock!
      $3.95
      $3.95
    • 25 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Synthetic Cork
      655 in stock!
      $9.95
      $9.95
    • 4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Wax Remover Spray 2.0
      39 in stock!
      $17.95
      $13.95
    • Fiber Paper
      81 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wax Remover 2.1 150mL Spray bottle
      527 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      92 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • CWS Proform AL-1 Waxing bench Station
      38 in stock!
      $669.95
      $669.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95

    How to Apply Klister

    Video in Swedish, but it will give you the idea. (English instructions below)

    Klisters are the stickiest kick waxes. They're so sticky they come in a tube, like toothpaste. Klister is the best way to get grip in super icy snow or in very warm, wet snow. Klister is often viewed as a huge pain to use but it can actually be used just as easily as any hardwax. If you are skiing a shorter distance, red klisters and warmer can be applied with only a cork. You'll probably need a heat source for violet klisters and colder. The best kick you'll ever have will probably be on a klister day so don't miss out because you think it will be too messy!
    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. Because klister is meant to be applied very thick, your klister "zone" or klister "pocket" is shorter than your normal hardwax grip zone - usually shorter by an inch or two at the front and back of the grip zone. Use a permanent marker to redefine your klister as often as you can by marking it with a "k" on the sidewall of your skis. Experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. Base binders are less important with klisters, but if the snow is very icy and you plan on skiing more than 10km, consider using a base binder.
    4. With the klister tube, dab a thin layer in a chevron pattern. You may need to heat the tube with a heat gun or torch to make it flow nicely. Feel free to mix and match different klisters to make your own perfect mix. Often klisters are mixed 50/50, 70/30, etc... by wax techs.
    5. Using a heat source such as a dedicated kick wax iron, heat gun or torch, smooth out the klister. If you are using a heat gun or torch, use a cork a small metal-bristled chef's brush to smooth out the klister. If you are using an iron, make sure you only ever use it for kick wax. Have another iron for glide waxes only to avoid cross-contamination.
    6. Let the klister cool for a few minutes. Set the ski outside over the snow (but not touching the snow) to speed the cooling.
    7. Once the klister is cool, you may need to "cover" it. A "klister cover" is a couple of layers of hardwax used to give klister a bit more glide factor if the klister has too much "bite".

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
      255 in stock!
      $3.95
      $3.95
    • 25 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Synthetic Cork
      655 in stock!
      $9.95
      $9.95
    • 4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Wax Remover Spray 2.0
      39 in stock!
      $17.95
      $13.95
    • Fiber Paper
      81 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wax Remover 2.1 150mL Spray bottle
      527 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      92 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • CWS Proform AL-1 Waxing bench Station
      38 in stock!
      $669.95
      $669.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95

    How to Apply Liquid Hardwaxes

    Instructional video in Finnish. English instructions below:

    Liquid kick waxes are an incredibly easy way to apply kick wax. No need for a cork or even a wax bench!
    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly two feet (60cm) long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. If the snow is icy or if you're planning on skiing more than 10km, apply a base binder. Using a liquid base binder is ideal since you are using liquid kick waxes anyway.
    4. At room temperature, apply the liquid kick wax using the foam dabber. Push the foam into the ski to release some liquid onto the ski, then gently spread it out until the entire kick zone is covered with an even layer of wax.
    5. Set the ski outside to cool. It could take 10min for the wax to fully cool.
    6. Apply another layer or two until you have your prefered kick wax thickness.

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
      255 in stock!
      $3.95
      $3.95
    • 25 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • 4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Wax Remover Spray 2.0
      39 in stock!
      $17.95
      $13.95
    • Fiber Paper
      81 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wax Remover 2.1 150mL Spray bottle
      527 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      92 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • CWS Proform AL-1 Waxing bench Station
      38 in stock!
      $669.95
      $669.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95

    How to Apply Spray Klister

    An instructional video in Swedish. It should give you the idea:

    How to Apply Base Binder Kick Wax

    Base Binders are used as an underlayer for the grip wax of the day to improve durability. They have a tacky consistency and help improve how the wax of the day will stick on the ski base so it's a great idea to apply a couple of layers of base binder if you are planning on skiing more than 10km or if the snow is icy. In icy snow, it may be the case that base binder on its own will give you the best combination of grip and glide! Some klisters can also be used as a base binder when you need a more serious level of adhesion.

      Video in Swedish, but it will give you the idea. (English instructions below)

    1. Check your skis for grip zone markers. Kick wax is only applied to the zone under the binding of the ski leaving the tips and tails of the ski free for glide waxing. A good grip zone will be roughly 45cm long but will vary a lot depending on how stiff your skis are (the camber). Your local ski shop can help you find your grip zones, or you can use the zones pre-marked on the sidewalls of your skis. Use a permanent marker to redefine your grip zones as often as you can and experiment with extending your grip zone further forwards or backward to find the right feel while skiing.
    2. Prepare your grip zone by cleaning with wax remover and roughing with sandpaper.
    3. Crayon a layer of base binder over your entire grip zone. If you are using a klister binder, dab a thin layer in a cheveron pattern.
    4. Using a heat source such as a dedicated kick wax iron, heat gun or torch, smooth out the base binder. If you are using a heat gun or torch, use a cork to smooth out the base binder. If you are using an iron, make sure you only ever use it for kick wax. Have another iron for glide waxes only to avoid cross-contamination.
    5. Let the base binder cool for a few minutes. Set the ski outside to speed the cooling.
    6. Once the base binder is cool, apply another layer. Usually, two layers is enough but sometimes one layer is good or you may need three or more layers. When using base binder alone as your wax of the day, repeat 3-6 times.
    7. When the last layer has cooled you are now ready to apply the kick wax of the day on top!

      8. How to apply klister as a binder: (Again, in Swedish)

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
      255 in stock!
      $3.95
      $3.95
    • 25 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Synthetic Cork
      655 in stock!
      $9.95
      $9.95
    • 4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Wax Remover Spray 2.0
      39 in stock!
      $17.95
      $13.95
    • Fiber Paper
      81 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wax Remover 2.1 150mL Spray bottle
      527 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      92 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • CWS Proform AL-1 Waxing bench Station
      38 in stock!
      $669.95
      $669.95
    • Rode Iron Holder for Table.
      8 in stock!
      $119.95
      $119.95

    How to Remove Kick Wax

    Some extra steps specifically for klister removal: (Again in Swedish: See below for English instructions)

    1. When you are done skiing, remove the sticky wax as soon as possible (when it's still cold). You'll have less of a mess if the wax is still chilled. Otherwise, you may find it easier to scrape off at room temperature but the trade-off is the wax will be goopy, flow, and will get everywhere!
    2. Use a grip wax scraper to remove as much of the wax as you can.
    3. Squirt a decent amount of wax remover on the grip zone and let it sit for a minute or two.
    4. Leaving the wax remover on the grip zone, use a bit of Fibertex to rub off any kick wax still stuck to the base until the wax remover is a yucky slurry. Be sure to thoroughly clean the sidewalls and groove of the ski with the Fibertex.
    5. Use a piece of Fiberlene or shop towel to wipe off the slurry from the grip zone and sidewalls.
    6. Soak a section of Fiberlene or shop towel with wax remover and wipe down the grip zone and sidewalls until there's no more stickiness.
    7. Your skis are now ready for travel or storage and your future self will thank you for taking care of business!

    Tools for the Job

    • Multiscraper
      255 in stock!
      $3.95
      $3.95
    • 25 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • 4 in stock!
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Wax Remover Spray 2.0
      39 in stock!
      $17.95
      $13.95
    • Fiber Paper
      81 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wax Remover 2.1 150mL Spray bottle
      527 in stock!
      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Rode Wall Ski Holder
      92 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • Apron
      23 in stock!
      $29.95
      $29.95
    • CWS Proform AL-1 Waxing bench Station
      38 in stock!
      $669.95
      $669.95
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