$5 shipping on orders above $100. Free shipping on orders over $250. Ships from Thunder Bay, ON, CAN.
100mm Merino Wool Roto Brush for Cold Application Angle 1
100mm Merino Wool Roto Brush for Cold Application Angle 2
100mm Merino Wool Roto Brush for Cold Application Angle 3
100mm Merino Wool Roto Brush for Cold Application Angle 4

Swix 100mm Merino Wool Roto Brush for Cold Application

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For more information on delivery time estimates and shipping policies, click here. Nearly all items ship from our warehouse in Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada


Inventory Status:
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Inventory
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SWT18W
Ships in 2-4 Weeks
$224.95
$224.95
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Application Methods

Safety Warning!

In the application process of some ski wax products, you and others can ba exposed to dangerous dust, fumes or residues. With the correct safety protolcols in place, these risks can be mitiagted and waxing can be very safe.

Safe Waxing protolcol:

  1. Always wax in a well-ventilated area. Outside is best. If you have to wax inside make sure there is some sort of air exchanger in place. Range hoods are best. Fans are better than nothing. Be sure to point out any lack of air exchanging equipment to the staff of any waxing facility or the race organizers.
  2. Whenever using any kind of heat in the waxing process (irons, heat guns, torches) always wear a respirator. Respirators that cover your eyes are best and check for a fluorocarbon rating on your respirator. Remember, the most dangerous fumes are not from powders but resins in grip wax and klisters. Wear a mask even when you are using non-fluorinated waxes since fumes from burnt paraffins are not OK to inhale. Respirators are required in the wax room.
  3. When creating any dust in the waxing process (brushing, scraping) always wear a respirator and gloves. Compounds in blocks, liquids, powders, klisters, and other hardwaxes can be absorbed through the skin. Wax companies keep their wax recipes secret so we have no idea what chemical compounds are present in most waxes nor their effects on the body. Always wear gloves while waxing to reduce your risk to negligible levels.
  4. People who are not waxing are not allowed in the wax room.
  5. Be sure to safely dispose of wax shavings and dust. Contained in a plastic garbage bag is adequate.

With the proper level of adult responsibility, any wax can be used perfectly safely and with negligible harm to the environment. Follow the correct safety protocols whenever you enter a wax room and be prepared with the right safety equipment. Remember to enjoy your fast skis to the max!

    How to Prepare your Ski Bases for Glide Waxing

    Whether you have a brand new pair of skis, a freshly stoneground ski, or a ski requiring maintenance after 200-300km on the trails, going through a base preparation process will clean out any dust or dirt as well as saturate and harden the base so it's ready for several outings. The base preparation process is the best way to maintain the health of your ski bases so they'll treat you to many years of fast glide. You'll also get the most out of any subsequent wax applications since a saturated and hardened base will provide an optimal anchor or any wax you apply on top.
    1. Begin by scraping a brushing out your base as thoroughly as possible. Use metal brushes if you have them.
    2. Clean your entire base with a base cleaner or wax remover. Wipe as much dirt and dust off with Fiberlene or shop towel.
    3. Using a piece of Fibertex, energetically rub-down the entire glide zone to remove any microscopic hairs or burrs in the base. Ski*Go's pink paper is also great for this.
    4. Melt a thick layer of the softest yellow paraffin wax you can find with an iron set to 110C to 120C.
    5. Before the yellow wax has had a chance to cool, gently scrape and observe how much dust/dirt comes up with the not-quite solid wax. No need to brush yet. If a lot of dirt comes up, melt and hot-scrape another layer of yellow wax.
    6. Once, the yellow wax has come off clean, apply another layer of yellow wax and let it cool.
    7. Scrape and brush the cooled yellow wax and iron on a layer of a harder paraffin wax. A blue, green, graphite or dedicated base wax is ideal for this. Melt, cool, brush, scrape and repeat at least three times.

    Tools for the Job

    • Groove Scraper
      177 in stock!
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      160 in stock!
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      $8.95
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      $21.00
      $21.00
    • Fibertex Green, Hand (3 sheets/pack)
      $11.95
      $11.95
    • Fiber Paper
      66 in stock!
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      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      55 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • $23.95
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    • $23.95
      $23.95
    • Horsehair Handbrush
      17 in stock!
      $27.95
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    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
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      $35.00
      $35.00
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    • Bronze Handbrush
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      7 in stock!
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      13 in stock!
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      4 in stock!
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      $319.95
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      1 in stock!
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    How to Iron Paraffin Waxes (Hot Waxing or Melt Waxing)

    Instructional video in Swedish, but it gives you the idea. English instructions below:

    The bread and butter of glide waxing. Using an iron to apply paraffin blocks of melt wax is the classic, timeless way to get your skis going speedy. Using an iron is a skill and takes a bit to master, but if you work at it you won't have to on the trails!
    1. Begin by making sure your skis are clean. Scraped then brush gently with a steel or brass brush.
    2. Using a piece of Fibertex, energetically rub-down the entire glide zone to remove any microscopic hairs or burrs in the base. Ski*Go's pink paper is also great for this. Your ski is now clean and prepped for the paraffin wax.
    3. Pre-heat your iron to the temperature recommended by the wax company for the particular wax you will be using. Temperatures for paraffin waxes are usually between 110C and 160C.
    4. Melt thin bead of the wax of the day down the ski on one side of the groove and back up the other side. Hold the iron with the plate vertical and touch one of the bottom corners to the ski base. Hold the block of wax in the other hand and touch it to the iron to melt it. Move quickly to apply the right amount of wax. Make sure the iron's electrical cord isn't going to get caught or knock anything over. I do not recommend holding the iron above the ski and letting drips fall onto the ski. It is very difficult to wax consistently this way and you will waste wax when you miss the ski entirely and drip hot wax onto your feet. Another method to get the wax on the ski is one I use when I'm applying precious, expensive HF paraffins: Quickly tap the paraffin block to the bottom of the iron and in a quick motion drag the still-hot block along the base until all the liquified wax has stuck to the base. Repeat by quickly touching the block to the iron again and repeat until the entire glide zone is covered with a thin layer of wax.
    5. Once the wax is on the ski set aside the block of wax and use the iron to melt the wax into the base. Hold the iron with a light pressure and run it down the ski from tip to tail careful not to let the iron rest in one place for too long. The paraffin should liquify for a couple of seconds but harden after a few seconds. If the wax is liquified for more than a few seconds you are not moving the iron fast enough. If you move the iron too fast the wax will become solid after a second or less. Try to completely cover one side of the ski's groove with the paraffin on the first pass by angling the pressure of the iron with your hand. Cover the other side of the groove on the second pass. On the third pass, apply pressure evenly across the ski.
    6. Use a groove scraper to remove wax from the sidewalls and the ski's groove(s).
    7. Let the ski cool. 5 minutes.
    8. Using a sharp scraper, scrape off the excess paraffin. Scrape like you mean it, but don't press too hard. Angle the scraper forward and place your thumbs behind and at the bottom of the scaper. Scrape from tip to tail.
    9. After scraping, pass a steel or brass brush 5-6 times using a light pressure. Start at the tip and move to the tail.
    10. If you like, you can polish the base using a nylon hand brush or nylon roto-brush.
    11. Consider finishing your ski by adding structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper.

    Tools for the Job

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      $27.95
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      $519.95
      $519.95
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    How to Apply Powdered Glide Waxes

    Instructional video in Swedish, but it gives you the idea. English instructions below:

    Falsely condisered an advanced waxing technique, applying glide powders is acutally very easy. Most powders require an iron temperature of 180C or more so make sure you have a high-quality iron that will reach 180C.
    1. Begin by making sure your skis are clean. Scrape then brush gently with a steel or brass brush and treated with a base cleaner if required. Powders can be applied to a completely bare base in warm conditions, or over a base paraffin - generally in colder conditions.
    2. Pre-heat your iron to the temperature recommended by the wax company for the particular powder you will be using. Iron temperatures for powders are usually between 160C and 180C.
    3. Tap a line of powder up and down the ski on both sides of the groove.
    4. Using the iron, stamp down the powder to quickly melt it into the base. Because the iron is so hot, be careful not to let it rest in one place for too long.
    5. Give the powder one more quick pass with the iron. Don't worry about melting all the powder into the base at this point. Our main concern is not to burn the ski base.
    6. Let the ski cool. 5 minutes.
    7. Using a nylon brush dedicated for pure fluoro use only, loosen the powder. You can now iron, cork, or roto cork the powder in one more time for better durability and speed.
    8. Let the ski cool one more time.
    9. Using a horsehair hand brush or roto brush, vigorously brush away the excess left-over wax. 8-10 passes with a hand brush should be enough or a few passes with the roto-brush.
    10. For colder powders, give the ski a few passes with a steel or brass brush. Start at the tip and move to the tail using a very light pressure.
    11. To polish, use a nylon hand brush or nylon roto-brush. 10-15 passes with a hand brush or 3-4 with a roto brush should be plenty. Your ski base should now be very shiny.
    12. Consider topping off your ski by adding a quick layer of liquid wax or puck, structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper. Your skis are now race ready!

    Tools for the Job

    • Groove Scraper
      177 in stock!
      $6.95
      $6.95
    • Rode 3mm Plexiglass scraper
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      $8.95
      $8.95
    • Fiberlene
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      $21.00
      $21.00
    • Fiber Paper
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      $17.95
      $17.95
    • Glider Cleaner Spray
      55 in stock!
      $19.95
      $19.95
    • $23.95
      $23.95
    • $23.95
      $23.95
    • Horsehair Handbrush
      17 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Soft Nylon Handbrush
      1 in stock!
      $27.95
      $27.95
    • Wall Ski Holder
      $29.95
      $29.95
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      $29.95
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      $35.00
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      $35.95
      $35.95
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      $38.25
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      $49.95
      $49.95
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      $65.95
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      $65.95
      $65.95
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      $65.95
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      $99.95
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      $99.95
      $99.95
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      $119.95
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      $199.00
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      1 in stock!
      $444.95
      $444.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 180°C / 15mm plate / 110v / Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      $519.95
      $519.95
    • Digital Waxing Iron / 200°C / 25mm plate / 110v / (Touchpad Control, Digital Readout)
      2 in stock!
      $799.95
      $799.95
    Cold Weather Waxing
    Warm Weather Waxing
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