Why Buy It: Gallium HYBRID PINK HF Glide Wax is for wet and slushy snow above freezing. Make sure to use a rill and add some pure fluoro toppers.
Cost Breakdown: How many pairs of skis can be waxed with this product?
Option
Waxes This Many Pairs Cross Country Skis:
Cost Per Application:
Comparative Price:
50g
20
$2.50 CAD
$
$
$
$
$
All Snow Types between 10.0°C and 0.0°C
Recommended for:
- Fresh Falling Snow
- New Snow
- Transforming Snow
- Transformed Snow
- Old Snow
- Icy Snow
- Man-Made Snow
Features
- Softest wax in the HYBRID HF series.
- Extreme hydrophobic properties for limited suction in wet, slushy snow.
- Make sure to add a rill to help get rid of water build up under the base.
- This is a race wax, but is commonly use as a base wax for pure-fluoro toppers.
- Great value this year! Because of the low Yen, this wax is cheaper than the SKIGO equivalent.
Application Methods
Safety Warning!
In the application process of some ski wax products, you and others can ba exposed to dangerous dust, fumes or residues. With the correct safety protolcols in place, these risks can be mitiagted and waxing can be very safe.
Safe Waxing protolcol:
- Always wax in a well-ventilated area. Outside is best. If you have to wax inside make sure there is some sort of air exchanger in place. Range hoods are best. Fans are better than nothing. Be sure to point out any lack of air exchanging equipment to the staff of any waxing facility or the race organizers.
- Whenever using any kind of heat in the waxing process (irons, heat guns, torches) always wear a respirator. Respirators that cover your eyes are best and check for a fluorocarbon rating on your respirator. Remember, the most dangerous fumes are not from powders but resins in grip wax and klisters. Wear a mask even when you are using non-fluorinated waxes since fumes from burnt paraffins are not OK to inhale. Respirators are required in the wax room.
- When creating any dust in the waxing process (brushing, scraping) always wear a respirator and gloves. Compounds in blocks, liquids, powders, klisters, and other hardwaxes can be absorbed through the skin. Wax companies keep their wax recipes secret so we have no idea what chemical compounds are present in most waxes nor their effects on the body. Always wear gloves while waxing to reduce your risk to negligible levels.
- People who are not waxing are not allowed in the wax room.
- Be sure to safely dispose of wax shavings and dust. Contained in a plastic garbage bag is adequate.
With the proper level of adult responsibility, any wax can be used perfectly safely and with negligible harm to the environment. Follow the correct safety protocols whenever you enter a wax room and be prepared with the right safety equipment. Remember to enjoy your fast skis to the max!
- Begin by making sure your skis are clean. Scraped then brush gently with a steel or brass brush.
- Using a piece of Fibertex, energetically rub-down the entire glide zone to remove any microscopic hairs or burrs in the base. Ski*Go's pink paper is also great for this. Your ski is now clean and prepped for the paraffin wax.
- Pre-heat your iron to the temperature recommended by the wax company for the particular wax you will be using. Temperatures for paraffin waxes are usually between 110C and 160C.
- Melt thin bead of the wax of the day down the ski on one side of the groove and back up the other side. Hold the iron with the plate vertical and touch one of the bottom corners to the ski base. Hold the block of wax in the other hand and touch it to the iron to melt it. Move quickly to apply the right amount of wax. Make sure the iron's electrical cord isn't going to get caught or knock anything over. I do not recommend holding the iron above the ski and letting drips fall onto the ski. It is very difficult to wax consistently this way and you will waste wax when you miss the ski entirely and drip hot wax onto your feet. Another method to get the wax on the ski is one I use when I'm applying precious, expensive HF paraffins: Quickly tap the paraffin block to the bottom of the iron and in a quick motion drag the still-hot block along the base until all the liquified wax has stuck to the base. Repeat by quickly touching the block to the iron again and repeat until the entire glide zone is covered with a thin layer of wax.
- Once the wax is on the ski set aside the block of wax and use the iron to melt the wax into the base. Hold the iron with a light pressure and run it down the ski from tip to tail careful not to let the iron rest in one place for too long. The paraffin should liquify for a couple of seconds but harden after a few seconds. If the wax is liquified for more than a few seconds you are not moving the iron fast enough. If you move the iron too fast the wax will become solid after a second or less. Try to completely cover one side of the ski's groove with the paraffin on the first pass by angling the pressure of the iron with your hand. Cover the other side of the groove on the second pass. On the third pass, apply pressure evenly across the ski.
- Use a groove scraper to remove wax from the sidewalls and the ski's groove(s).
- Let the ski cool. 5 minutes.
- Using a sharp scraper, scrape off the excess paraffin. Scrape like you mean it, but don't press too hard. Angle the scraper forward and place your thumbs behind and at the bottom of the scaper. Scrape from tip to tail.
- After scraping, pass a steel or brass brush 5-6 times using a light pressure. Start at the tip and move to the tail.
- If you like, you can polish the base using a nylon hand brush or nylon roto-brush.
- Consider finishing your ski by adding structure with a rill tool if there is a lot of moisture in the snow, or if it is very cold or dry, finish the ski with some Ski*Go pink paper.
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How to Iron Paraffin Waxes (Hot Waxing or Melt Waxing)
Instructional video in Swedish, but it gives you the idea. English instructions below:
The bread and butter of glide waxing. Using an iron to apply paraffin blocks of melt wax is the classic, timeless way to get your skis going speedy. Using an iron is a skill and takes a bit to master, but if you work at it you won't have to on the trails!
Tools for the Job
Additives
- High Fluoros